Style Wars
Paula Scher

In Make in Bigger, Scher candidly reveals her thoughts on design practice, drawing on her own experiences as one of the leading designers in the United States, and possibly the most famous female graphic designer in the world. Pointed and funny, it is an instructive guide for all those who navigate the difficult path between clients, employees, corporate structures, artists, and design professionals. Make it Bigger provides a survey of Scher's groundbreaking work, from her designs as art director at Columbia Records, to her identity for New York's Public Theater, to her recent work for the New York Times, Herman Miller, and the American Museum of Natural History's Rose Center planetarium.

Paula Scher is a partner at the New York design firm Pentagram. She has served as the president of the New York chapter of AIGA and in 2001 was honored with the AIGA medal.

After I left CBS Records, in 1982, Michael Vanderbyl invited me to lecture with some other designers at the California Institute of Arts and Crafts. One of the speakers was Kathy McCoy, who was then running the graphic-design program at Cranbrook. McCoy showed work she had designed at Unimark in the sixties. The work was in the classic Swiss international style that was popular at that time (and is now popular again). She recounted how the greatest compliment one could pay any work was to say that it was "really clean." Then she discussed Robert Venturi and company's 1972 treatise Learning from Las Vegas. McCoy emphasized the breakthrough in this architect's thinking and how it had affected graphic design in the subsequent decade. "Clean" was no longer good enough; as a result, we were all becoming postmodernists. Postmodern in this context meant employing some decorative graphic devices that may have come from classical architecture or geometry, or the act of deconstructing typography to alter meaning and create a more expressionistic layout. In the late sixties, when I was in art school, I had not yet heard of Venturi. I had rebelled against the Swiss international style because the act of organizing the Helvetica typeface on a grid reminded me of cleaning up my room. Also I viewed Helvetica, the visual language of corporations, as the establishment typeface and therefore somehow responsible for the Vietnam War.

"Everything anyone ever needed to learn about graphic design was in those three album covers."


My major influences in the sixties were Zigzag rolling papers and album covers, particularly the Beatles' covers. Revolver is art nouveau-influenced; the illustrative hair on the cover is drawn in the style of Aubrey Beardsley. I emulated the Revolver cover for all of my Tyler School of Art illustration assignments. Sgt. Pepper, my all-time favorite, inspired me because I kept finding more famous people and hidden meanings in the imagery. Stylistically it fuses Victoriana and pop, but what I liked most about it was the humor. The "White Album" is the ultimate in high concept — only the Beatles could be that expressly arrogant. Everything anyone ever needed to learn about graphic design was in those three album covers. My other inspirations were Pushpin Studios, Victor Moscoso, and California psychedelia. All of this influenced my work in the seventies, when my passion for eclectic typography moved from Roman classicism through Victoriana, art nouveau, and art deco — and finally to early modernism, constructivism, and all concoctions thereof.

I mostly employed historic typography to make some kind of point or to convey a mood based on the subject matter of the records or books I was designing. This was consistent with Pushpin's approach to design. Pushpin Studios brilliantly married conceptual imagery (both illustration and photography) with eclectic, often decorative typography. They did so to make a specific point or to tell a joke. It seemed to me to be the most generous form of design. It told you what you needed to know and entertained you at the same time. Seymour Chwast was my hero. I met him when I was twenty-two and married him twice (the second marriage worked).

"Graphic designers were the first postmodernists, not architects"

The McCoy lecture stunned me because it seemed to deny the existence of the Pushpin form of eclecticism pre-Venturi. It ignored fifteen years of graphic-design culture. Graphic designers were the first postmodernists, not architects; but when a famous architect — in this case Venturi — was quoted, the design approach gained a credibility that could not be attained by the work of graphic designers alone.

McCoy's was the first of many lectures I attended in the eighties in which there was an apparent disconnect between theory and practice. Academic symposiums about design in the eighties addressed such themes as semiotics, deconstruction, and the vernacular as if designers worked in an ivory tower without the complex interaction between client and designer. It led to the impression that design styles and methodologies were hatched in art schools and then exported to the marketplace, where they were purchased for mass production. Many academic symposiums were theoretically all about process but never actually about the imperfect people who are the clients.

On the other hand, practitioner symposiums in the eighties were related to "business." They discussed proposal writing, promotion, appropriate business attire, office design, and other peripheral matters that were oriented toward appearance while they ignored the true designer-client relationship, which is all about power, personality, and human nature. It is the human factor — combustible client-designer relationships coupled with marketplace accidents — that inevitably lead to the visual gestalt of an era.

"...and the style wars had begun."

During this period a growing number of university design programs and an expanding academic design community — together with a plethora of graphic-design publications, annuals, conferences, and historic compendiums — made design style, in and of itself, highly visible and important. Mainstream journalists, sophisticated laypeople, and corporate marketers began using terms like postmodern, new wave, retro, and punk to describe design styles. Marketing departments made demographic associations based on these looks and styles, and through increased focus testing, began to determine what specific products should look like in order to appeal to specific audiences. Clients had become more style savvy — and the style wars had begun.

I quit my job as senior art director of CBS Records in 1982. I began freelancing and was retained to design two developmental publications for Time Inc. One was a lifestyle magazine called Quality, the other a human-relations publication called Together. These new magazines were typical of publications produced then and now. Most publications fall into two basic categories: coping and craving. Coping publications tell you how to do something: make money, run your business, lower your cholesterol, save your marriage, clean out your closet, lose weight, use a computer, or hire a nanny. Craving publications tell you what you should want: what to buy, where to travel, what to wear, what to look like, and what sort of lifestyle to have.

"Most publications fall into two categories: coping and craving"

Coping magazines tend to have lots of instructional information. It is often completely useless, but it looks didactic all the same. Graphic devices used in coping publications are:
- side bars
- decorative headings (early 1980s: in boxes with or without drop shadows; late 1980s: no boxes, but perhaps underscores, overscores, sometimes with teeny halftone photos; 1990s: lozenges)
- dingbats
- icons
- elaborately illustrated charts and graphs with inset photos that are silhouetted and have drop shadows or spot illustration

Craving magazines tend toward big, splashy, dramatic layouts of photographs filled with people, places, and stuff. At the time I took on Quality they needed:
- widely spaced type (later the opposite: big type in capitals with little spacing)
- layering
- out-of-focus photos, photos of people or places that look wet
- big drop caps or big words (later no drop caps or big words)
- textured backgrounds (later white space)
- rough devices, like photographic contact sheets or grease-pencil marks

The mannerisms of these types of publication informed all other forms of graphic design in the eighties and nineties, and are now the visual language of annual reports, brochures, books, packaging, and fashion advertising. Coping devices leaped right off magazine pages and became the language of computer screens. Most Web sites today owe their styling and organization to the coping magazines of the eighties and early nineties.

My ideal magazine has always been the Esquire of the sixties, when George Lois produced his powerful "big idea" covers, and the seventies, when Jean-Paul Goude art-directed and contributed brilliant illustrations. By the eighties no mainstream magazine resembled the Esquire of the sixties and seventies. New York magazine, which successfully combined a highly packaged design format with conceptual or journalistic illustration and photography, assumed the Esquire mantle and became a role model first for all city magazines and then for weekly news publications. (The New York format was the mother of all coping publications.)

"Milton Glaser took the masthead title design director"

When Milton Glaser created the format for New York with Walter Bernard, he took on the masthead title "design director" because he had had a hand in shaping the editorial content of the publication along with Clay Felker, the magazine's editor in chief. Previously the highest art title on the typical magazine masthead was art director, followed by assistant art director, designer, design assistant. In the twenties and thirties, art directors were called art editors. The art editor was responsible for the look and visual content of a magazine and had true editorial status.

Glaser's "design director" title was misconstrued in the eighties. Rather than understanding it to mean a leading position in the editorial process, magazine editors determined that the most important contributions to be obtained from the senior art employee or consultant were simply oversight of the format, packaging, and style of a publication. This consisted of little more than the choice of appropriate design devices and a methodology for purchasing and displaying necessary artwork. Most editors were comfortable with formats that were similar to other publications that existed in the same genre. This remains true even today. If I receive a call from the editor of, say, a travel magazine, he or she will ask to see all the other travel magazines I have designed. So coping magazines look like coping magazines, and craving magazines look like craving magazines. And coping magazines about money look like other coping magazines about money, and craving magazines about home decorating look like other craving magazines about home decorating. Once every five years a brave editor and publisher break the paradigm, and if they prove successful, shortly thereafter other publications follow suit.

Once an editor is comfortable with a designed format, which is very often purchased from an outside consultant, the editor feels confident that he or she can hire an inexpensive art director (sometimes an assistant to the consultant) to execute the magazine. The art director purchases the necessary photography and illustration that fit into the spaces allotted by the format and shows the layouts to the editor for comment and revision. He or she then obtains the necessary changes from the illustrator, shows it to the editor again, and fills in the format. This creates an insipid climate for magazine design. Magazine editors ("word people") assume that designers ("art people") don't read and are only concerned with stupid things like drop caps and hairline rules — the very things the editors are so anxious to purchase.

"Ambiguity worked stylistically because it is apolitical and noncommittal"

In the eighties, the age of Ronald Reagan, style triumphed over substance. I was often retained as a publication "cover consultant" to help "design directors" who did not have enough power to persuade their editors that a given solution was appropriate. The entwined priorities of telling an entire story on the cover yet not offending some faction of the magazine's readership made it almost impossible to commission intelligent illustration or conceptual photography. Editors read all kinds of mysterious things into imagery that were never intended. The big-image, big-idea album covers I designed and art-directed in the seventies were impossible to achieve in the eighties. The images that would be accepted with relative ease tended to be nonspecific, impressionistic, blurry, or moody. Ambiguity, a postmodern approach, worked stylistically because it is apolitical and noncommittal. It became incredibly fashionable.

I began to discover that it was easier and less compromising to persuade editors to rely on type treatments for subject matter that was cerebral in nature. Editors were naturally more comfortable with words than with images and liked to be involved in fairly arbitrary decisions like color choice. Most strong type treatments (if they work in black-and-white) work in a plethora of color combinations, so when an editor would indicate that he or she didn't like blue, green was possible. It allowed for a controlled area of harmless input. I employed this practice in all forms of design: poster design, book design, packaging, and sometimes advertising. Illustrative typography became my trademark out of necessity.

"In the eighties design and style were confused"

Design is an art of planning. A problem is presented, a conceptual blueprint is formed in response, a solution is achieved. Style is a matter of appearance — the way something looks or feels. In the eighties design and style were confused and conflated by the people who purchased design, by the design press, and finally by designers and design educators. When I recall all the hot-button topics of the eighties, I see that they are all about style: the personal typographic approaches of Neville Brody and later David Carson; the deconstructed typography produced at Cranbrook; the postmodern catalog of substyles: new wave, high-tech, retro, and punk. They were commodities in competition with one another. They were purchased and dealt out to demonstrate all things coping or craving. The planning aspect, the conceptual aspect — the very thing Milton Glaser meant when he introduced the term design director — was commandeered by product managers, marketing departments, sales divisions, and editorial departments — by vast committees of people who assumed that when they hired a designer they were purchasing style.

My least favorite clients in the eighties were advertising agencies. Mediocre advertising agencies often wanted to be persuaded that they had the right "look" for an ad campaign that had been preconceived by an art director. Sometimes the agency wanted me to contribute logo designs for a pitch to a prospective client. I found that working for agencies usually meant breaking every important rule I learned at CBS Records. The art director who hired me was rarely a strong patron, and there was never direct access to a key decision maker, because the agencies simply would not allow it. My work had to pass through several layers of creative directors before it would finally be presented on the client side. It rarely made it there. The structure of advertising agencies creates a system of continually selling up.

"I have a profound difficulty with how advertising agencies make money."

I also have a profound difficulty with how advertising agencies make money. Profit is made by retaining a percentage (17.65 percent is the standard industry rate) of the money allotted by the client for purchasing advertising space. That means that if the client purchases, say, a full-page, full-color ad in the New York Times, the client will advance the roughly $100,000, for the purchase and the agency will make $17,650 on the buy. If the client is purchasing lots of print ads and television advertising, the amount of money becomes enormous. Copy and design are thrown in for free. And if they're free, they're worthless. There is nothing to defend or protect, no standard to bear, no paradigm to change, nothing to elevate. There is no extra value in something intelligent or well crafted. If the "creative" is thrown in for free, then all that has value is the media space itself. If you take that thought to its logical conclusion, what fills the media space is essentially irrelevant, as long as the client feels satisfied enough to continue purchasing it. That creates a completely amoral design climate.

My favorite clients, other than design-related businesses, have always been entrepreneurs. I like working with entrepreneurs because they create products, take risks, and are prepared to make decisions. One or two entrepreneurs are better than three. Three entrepreneurs are a committee, and all committees have power struggles. I have never made a design presentation to three or more people of equal decision-making power and had all three like the design equally. Usually there is one strong opinion leader who rules and persuades the others. If two people have equally strong opinions, there will be a power play for the third. The following dynamic is typical
- At the beginning of the meeting, expectations are high.
- The presentation is well received; it reaches the moment of highest appreciation.
- One person in the group raises a few concerns not addressed in the presentation; another adds a few qualms and so on until the level of appreciation dips below the initial starting point.
- The designer reiterates the initial presentation, addressing points in the expressed concerns by proposing certain revisions. The sponsoring client reinforces this, and the level of appreciation rises to a point lower than the initial high but respectably above starting expectations.
- It is then time to end the meeting. If the meeting does not end, a counter rebuttal may ensue, which will bring the appreciation level down to a new low point, and the design will gradually become unsalvageable.

Here's another design-committee axiom: If the design presented is simple and contains a limited amount of information and imagery, there are likely to be far more amendments and revisions than if the presentation has a great deal of copy and conveys lots of complicated information. This is because approval committees don't have the discipline, patience, or fastidiousness to concentrate on the details of complicated information. They can focus on anything reasonably simple, and will amend it until all the interest and joy are removed or until they are out of time.

A correlative to this rule is that apparently simple jobs are rarely that. When a client once tried to persuade me to cut my fee on a "simple" job, I told him that I needed the money to pay for all the changes he was going to make. He insisted that the project was uncomplicated and that there would be few revisions. I offered him a deal: the design would be free, but every revision made — no matter how minor — would cost a thousand dollars. He refused the deal.

"If you work with a dumb person with energy, therein lies the seed of disaster."

George Lois had this to say about the personality types of collaborators, and I have found it to be invariably true:

"There are smart people and dumb people. There are people who have energy and people who are lazy. They exist in combinations. If you work with a smart person with energy, that's your best collaborator. If you work with a smart person who's lazy, well, that's a bit of a waste, but it does no harm. If you work with a dumb person who's lazy, that's sad but not problematic, because they will simply be ineffectual. But if you work with a dumb person with energy, therein lies the seed of disaster."

By the late eighties I had begun to understand that the fact that something was well designed, or even just well styled, was irrelevant if it was being presented to a group that did not understand what they were looking at or were embroiled in their own power struggles. I had begun to find it increasingly difficult to control the quality of my work and to develop as a designer unless I was working on a pro bono basis or for a minimal fee for a design organization or design-industry client. This was depressing, because I believed that the whole point of graphic design was to bring intelligence, wit, and a higher level of aesthetics to everyday products, the articles of mass culture. I did not want to be an ivory tower designer; I had little interest in theoretical exploration. My goals were to design things that would get made, to elevate popular taste through practice, and to make graphic breakthroughs on real projects.

I realized that my position in relationship to corporate committees with approval power was essentially weak. I was not famous or considered a guru. My entire reputation was within the design community, not in any specific business except possibly in the entertainment industry — and my reputation there was getting weaker as time went on. I was hired on most projects for nominal fees. Very often I would be hired by a low-level marketing person who had to sell up. When my design failed to make it through the bureaucratic gauntlet, I found that the project would be reassigned to a large, powerful design firm for a large, powerful fee. I discovered that clients tended to respect an opinion in direct proportion to what they paid for it. The quality of the design was often irrelevant.

Most clients hired me based on previous work. That meant that if I tried to design something in a new way, they were uncomfortable with it and generally forced me to retreat to a previous solution. This made personal growth almost impossible. The type of work I had gotten would be the type of work I would get, in subject matter as well as in style; and as more design publications, books, and conferences made styles readily available for adaptation, there were more designers to compete with. Design and respect for design were devalued.

"Reinvention is personal growth."

The rapid growth of the design industry and the introduction of desktop publishing in the eighties precipitated an equally rapid lifecycle for design styles. Designs appeared dated in astonishingly short order. It was easy for a designer to be considered ?good? by his peers for five years, harder for ten, nearly impossible for fifteen. To maintain any creative longevity a designer today must reinvent his or her work every five years. This does not mean simply changing style. It means reassessing one's approach — again, design is an art of planning — and finding a way that is new yet still reflects on one's core ethic and aesthetic. This entails a reevaluation of one's visual vocabulary, new technologies, the cultural zeitgeist, and the scale on which one works. Reinvention is personal growth.

More history, criticism, and professional writing about design occurred in the eighties than in any previous decade. Ironically that writing also breaks down into those two basic categories, coping and craving. Coping design writing was about professional style: dress, office design, and proposal crafting. Craving writing was about design style: the myriad visual affectations that became popular through postmodernism. Neither addressed the complicated symbiotic relationship between designer and client. The designer was portrayed as either businessman or artist, the latter made personal work, with the client as patron; the former solved the clients' problems and made money. It seemed to me that there had to be another alternative.

Excerpt from MAKE IT BIGGER by Paula Scher

[ top ] ©2002 AIGA NY. All rights reserved. Want to reproduce something? Ask.